Home repairs and stories

AvgMSUJoe wrote:

Trapper Gus wrote:

A shelf built out of 2 x 6 framing might be needed.

I know right... I can't even imagine lifting one of those anymore.

In the waning days of CRTs, the Detroit office moved to a different building like 3 blocks down the road. I spent a day moving 19 and 21" monitors up and down desks and stairs and whatnot.... ouch.

I'm pretty sure we have an old school CRT television in the basement that I probably got around 1992-93. I've often thought about taking it to this East Lansing recycling event that the City of EL hosts every spring but a) I don't really feel like getting laughed at as I pull up with that thing and b) I'm pretty sure there's no way I could get it out of the basement, up the stairs and into the back of my Subaru by myself.

and, c) I sure as hell ain't asking anyone for help with regard to that thing.

AvgMSUJoe wrote:

Trapper Gus wrote:

A shelf built out of 2 x 6 framing might be needed.

I know right... I can't even imagine lifting one of those anymore.

In the waning days of CRTs, the Detroit office moved to a different building like 3 blocks down the road. I spent a day moving 19 and 21" monitors up and down desks and stairs and whatnot.... ouch.

+1 for use of the word whatnot.

Bobby Sak wrote:how difficult is it to hang/mount a TV on the wall?

the TV has been affixed to the wall.

Was pretty easy as soon as I located the studs and performed some 4th grade math with regard to measurements, etc.

I appreciate all the tips, encouragement, support, thoughts and prayers.

not the greatest picture, but.. behold. Next up, my own HGTV show.

Robert J Sakimano wrote:

Bobby Sak wrote:how difficult is it to hang/mount a TV on the wall?

the TV has been affixed to the wall.

Was pretty easy as soon as I located the studs and performed some 4th grade math with regard to measurements, etc.

I appreciate all the tips, encouragement, support, thoughts and prayers.

not the greatest picture, but.. behold. Next up, my own HGTV show.

I was unaware that they manufactured trapezoidal televisions. TIL.

Ordered new "rollers" for my dryer... should be fun.

My SiL busted our microwave over the weekend. Never shopped for one of those before. Also need to replace my WiFi and router. Add to that a new stove and garbage disposal and that adds up to an expensive fall.

I learned if you are replacing the over the oven kind of microwave, it pays to get something of decent quality, because it's a pain in the ass installing one... so make sure you wont have to do it again in 3-5 years.

I had to do that in March. I got the microwave from Home Depot, and I said no to installation because whatever why pay $100 it’s a microwave. Then I realized it was much more problematic than I thought so I called them back. They agreed to do it and came out. They were there for 1 minute before they said “yeah we’re not doing this shit” and left. So I had to figure it out.

The issue is that the brackets they build for those things aren’t the same, and in order to properly install the new bracket you’d have to drill through the tile backsplash. However I realized that I could improperly install it by just making 2 new holes in the bracket and match to the existing holes in the wall. That worked out fine. Hasn’t fallen yet.

tGreenWay wrote:My SiL busted our microwave over the weekend. Never shopped for one of those before. Also need to replace my WiFi and router. Add to that a new stove and garbage disposal and that adds up to an expensive fall.

I suggest skipping the WIFI, it's just a waste of your time.

AvgMSUJoe wrote:Ordered new "rollers" for my dryer... should be fun.

Old dryers weren't too bad. New ones probably suck

Had a washer quit agitating years back. Figured, "I can fix this." Took the whole thing apart right down to the transmission/gearbox...roughly 4 hours.

Realized had no idea what I was doing. Went to Sears next day and bought a new one.

I miss Sears. They use to have location nearby that stocked pretty much any part for any appliance of any brand.

so since I mounted the first TV, I've now mounted a second one - complete with the swinging arm that extends out. Pretty cool.

now.. get this.. it sounds like I'm going to be patching drywall. Someone doing some work on a shower, had to cut a hole through the wall to get behind it (I get all of this news via text, by the way.. during a meeting).

I've already watched a few 'how to' videos on patching drywall. Doesn't look or seem too difficult: cut, drill it in, tape, mud, sand, paint.  

kinda looking like this could cut into my nap schedule, though.

oh well - any drywall patching tips, I'm open to listening.

Robert J Sakimano wrote:so since I mounted the first TV, I've now mounted a second one - complete with the swinging arm that extends out. Pretty cool.

now.. get this.. it sounds like I'm going to be patching drywall. Someone doing some work on a shower, had to cut a hole through the wall to get behind it (I get all of this news via text, by the way.. during a meeting).

I've already watched a few 'how to' videos on patching drywall. Doesn't look or seem too difficult: cut, drill it in, tape, mud, sand, paint.  

kinda looking like this could cut into my nap schedule, though.

oh well - any drywall patching tips, I'm open to listening.

I hate sanding drywall. Remember that. You’re welcome.

tGreenWay wrote:

Robert J Sakimano wrote:so since I mounted the first TV, I've now mounted a second one - complete with the swinging arm that extends out. Pretty cool.

now.. get this.. it sounds like I'm going to be patching drywall. Someone doing some work on a shower, had to cut a hole through the wall to get behind it (I get all of this news via text, by the way.. during a meeting).

I've already watched a few 'how to' videos on patching drywall. Doesn't look or seem too difficult: cut, drill it in, tape, mud, sand, paint.  

kinda looking like this could cut into my nap schedule, though.

oh well - any drywall patching tips, I'm open to listening.

I hate sanding drywall. Remember that. You’re welcome.

from the DIY videos I'm watching, looks like the cure for anything from depression to a major cardiac event is to apply joint compound.

Use metal dry wall tools. Get a 4" and a 6" . Don't use the cheap plastic knives.
Start applying the joint compound with the 4" blade and finish with the 6"
I always "sand" with a sponge after the joint compound drys.

GRR Spartan wrote:Use metal dry wall tools. Get a 4" and a 6" . Don't use the cheap plastic knives.
Start applying the joint compound with the 4" blade and finish with the 6"
I always "sand" with a sponge after the joint compound drys.

yep these are good tips, especially on the dry wall tools. Same with painting - you get what you pay for.

Talked to the crew who was patching drywall at work years ago, they said to water down the dry wall taping compound for less, or in their case no, sanding.

I always had better luck in the long run with mesh tape rather than paper tape.

Floyd Robertson wrote:I always had better luck in the long run with mesh tape rather than paper tape.

the demos I've seen all seem to be using mesh tape.

tGreenWay wrote:

Robert J Sakimano wrote:so since I mounted the first TV, I've now mounted a second one - complete with the swinging arm that extends out. Pretty cool.

now.. get this.. it sounds like I'm going to be patching drywall. Someone doing some work on a shower, had to cut a hole through the wall to get behind it (I get all of this news via text, by the way.. during a meeting).

I've already watched a few 'how to' videos on patching drywall. Doesn't look or seem too difficult: cut, drill it in, tape, mud, sand, paint.  

kinda looking like this could cut into my nap schedule, though.

oh well - any drywall patching tips, I'm open to listening.

I hate sanding drywall. Remember that. You’re welcome.

If you're good at doing the tape and mud there is very little sanding to do.  I am not.  Did a total remodel on my last kitchen.  Only appliance that didn't move location was the range...even moved the sink.  Tore down a couple walls and built a few new ones.  Ended up tearing all the drywall out to make wiring new switches/outlets easier.  

A friend (RIP) had done a lot of remodeling and did the all the tape and mud.  Was very good.  Required very little sanding for the amount of new drywall that went up.

okay, question..

I have two good electric saws: a circular saw and a chop/mitre saw. Obviously, neither of these will work when cutting a sheet of drywall to the size I need. I can't quite tell yet (not at home), but from the picture it looks like it may be about 3 X 5 feet.

So, a decent size. I don't feel like buying a saw to do just this, as I don't think I'll be doing a whole lot of drywall work down the road. Would one of those drywall had/jab saws work okay ya think?

Robert J Sakimano wrote:okay, question..

I have two good electric saws: a circular saw and a chop/mitre saw. Obviously, neither of these will work when cutting a sheet of drywall to the size I need. I can't quite tell yet (not at home), but from the picture it looks like it may be about 3 X 5 feet.

So, a decent size. I don't feel like buying a saw to do just this, as I don't think I'll be doing a whole lot of drywall work down the road. Would one of those drywall had/jab saws work okay ya think?

I don't ever remember cutting drywall with anything other than a utility knife. Score it good and gently snap it off then cut the paper backing. You might go through a few blades is all.

Floyd Robertson wrote:

Robert J Sakimano wrote:okay, question..

I have two good electric saws: a circular saw and a chop/mitre saw. Obviously, neither of these will work when cutting a sheet of drywall to the size I need. I can't quite tell yet (not at home), but from the picture it looks like it may be about 3 X 5 feet.

So, a decent size. I don't feel like buying a saw to do just this, as I don't think I'll be doing a whole lot of drywall work down the road. Would one of those drywall had/jab saws work okay ya think?

I don't ever remember cutting drywall with anything other than a utility knife. Score it good and gently snap it off then cut the paper backing. You might go through a few blades is all.

This sounds right, but it’s been years since I worked with drywall (see reason above). A drywall hand saw isn’t for finishing work. Edit: Though it will do the job if you need the basic cut and applying the mesh over the cut.
You should really be asking I.B. on the best way to fuck up a DIY job.

Floyd Robertson wrote:

Robert J Sakimano wrote:okay, question..

I have two good electric saws: a circular saw and a chop/mitre saw. Obviously, neither of these will work when cutting a sheet of drywall to the size I need. I can't quite tell yet (not at home), but from the picture it looks like it may be about 3 X 5 feet.

So, a decent size. I don't feel like buying a saw to do just this, as I don't think I'll be doing a whole lot of drywall work down the road. Would one of those drywall had/jab saws work okay ya think?

I don't ever remember cutting drywall with anything other than a utility knife. Score it good and gently snap it off then cut the paper backing. You might go through a few blades is all.

This. For straight cuts, just use a utility knife. You can also use a hand drywall saw for cutting holes and whatnot.

You probably need a strait edge to follow when scoring the dry wall, but other than that just a utility knife.

Floyd Robertson wrote:

Robert J Sakimano wrote:okay, question..

I have two good electric saws: a circular saw and a chop/mitre saw. Obviously, neither of these will work when cutting a sheet of drywall to the size I need. I can't quite tell yet (not at home), but from the picture it looks like it may be about 3 X 5 feet.

So, a decent size. I don't feel like buying a saw to do just this, as I don't think I'll be doing a whole lot of drywall work down the road. Would one of those drywall had/jab saws work okay ya think?

I don't ever remember cutting drywall with anything other than a utility knife. Score it good and gently snap it off then cut the paper backing. You might go through a few blades is all.

This.  Make the cut deep as possible before doing the snap.  Use a metal straight edge as a guide for the cuts.  I have a 4' aluminum scale ("yard stick") and a 4' aluminum level.  Have used both for drywall.

The edges of drywall sheets are slightly tapered to account for tape and mud.  Use that to your advantage best as possible.

4' drywall t-square. You find them for less than $30.

Nordic wrote:

Floyd Robertson wrote:

I don't ever remember cutting drywall with anything other than a utility knife. Score it good and gently snap it off then cut the paper backing. You might go through a few blades is all.

This. For straight cuts, just use a utility knife. You can also use a hand drywall saw for cutting holes and whatnot.

+1 for use of whatnot.

Floyd Robertson wrote:4' drywall t-square. You find them for less than $30.

Went looking through my stuff and found a drywall square. Forgot I had one.

If it wasn't awkward to ship, I'd send it to Bob

The Pantry wrote:Went looking through my stuff and found a drywall square. Forgot I had one.

If it wasn't awkward to ship, I'd send it to Bob

Yep, haven't used mine in 22 years, but it's still there if I really want to.

patched up the spot behind the bookshelf in our kitchen. As I mentioned, the plumber had to cut it out to access the back of the bathtub/shower fixtures.

did a decent enough job, I think.. Can't even tell there was a gaping hole in the wall a week or two ago. Patching drywall, mudding, sanding, painting. Appreciate y'all's help and advice. Wasn't too difficult - just took time and some patience. Both of which I have.

DWags wrote:

Robert J Sakimano wrote:patched up the spot behind the bookshelf in our kitchen. As I mentioned, the plumber had to cut it out to access the back of the bathtub/shower fixtures.

did a decent enough job, I think.. Can't even tell there was a gaping hole in the wall a week or two ago. Patching drywall, mudding, sanding, painting. Appreciate y'all's help and advice. Wasn't too difficult - just took time and some patience. Both of which I have.

Holy cow, I need you to come see my garage. When we moved in a quarter century ago it was just a two car garage. Bare studs. As I was a high school admin guy I had summers off. July. I bought the drywall I hauled it I put it up I taped and muddied it. Holy crap does it look like hell. Back then I would run to Home Depot where they had instruction videos. I would take notes and drive home. Never had it fixed. I have storage racks to one side and a tool closet on the front wall. Only the right wall is visible for anyone curious. But we have the 64 thunderbird parked on that side. So if you’re walking in, You only see the lumped out mud above the trunk roof and hood Wife still tells people to go take a look when they come over.


Muddling is an art. If you did that on your first try, salute.

dude, it could look like the north end of a southbound cow but if you have a '64 Thunderbird in the vicinity, I promise, nobody will notice your DIY drywall job.

Thanks, man. I've dabbled in a bunch of stuff over the years. Worked some construction in a previous life, so I have a little bit of know how on a handful of things. Sometimes it's my confidence that needs a boost relative to my "don't fuck it up" insecurities.

One thing I do not mess around with though, beyond changing a light bulb, is electricity. No thanks.

Robert J Sakimano wrote:

DWags wrote:



Holy cow, I need you to come see my garage. When we moved in a quarter century ago it was just a two car garage. Bare studs. As I was a high school admin guy I had summers off. July.  I bought the drywall I hauled it I put it up I taped and muddied it.   Holy crap does it look like hell. Back then I would run to Home Depot where they had instruction videos.  I would take notes and drive home.  Never had it fixed.   I have storage racks to one side and a tool closet on the front wall.  Only the right wall is visible for anyone curious.   But we have the 64 thunderbird parked on that side. So if you’re walking in, You only see the lumped out mud above the trunk roof and hood     Wife still tells people to go take a look when they come over.    


Muddling is an art. If you did that on your first try, salute.

dude, it could look like the north end of a southbound cow but if you have a '64 Thunderbird in the vicinity,  I promise, nobody will notice your DIY drywall job.

Thanks, man. I've dabbled in a bunch of stuff over the years. Worked some construction in a previous life, so I have a little bit of know how on a handful of things. Sometimes it's my confidence that needs a boost relative to my "don't fuck it up" insecurities.

One thing I do not mess around with though, beyond changing a light bulb, is electricity. No thanks.

Electricity (black magic) isn't my favorite DIY.  Just have to make sure the power is off and it's not too bad.

First house was in RO.  Was originally a 3 bedroom but one of the previous owners knocked out a couple walls to make the kitchen/dining area bigger.  Went to change a light fixture in what had previously been the 3rd BR.  Pulled the fuse that turned off the light.  Got poked when going into the fixture box to deal with the wiring.  Never know what you're gonna get with an older house.  One of the previous owners had run 2 circuits through the same box.

Left most of the wiring to the contractor when building the new house.  I installed phone lines, internet, and TV coax cable to all rooms in the house...in hindsight now, all wasted time and material in 2800 square feet.  Turned out the electrician I hired was no genius.  Wired most of the lighting on the front side of the house to one circuit...long story.

Did a helluva lot of wiring in the remodeled kitchen in the next house.  Added probably 20 new switches/outlets, 6 ceiling can lights, and under cabinet lights.  Existing range was 220v so had to shut that down for the new gas range.  Learned a valuable lesson doing the wiring.  Some circuits required 12 ga wire instead of 14 ga.  I said "fuck it" and used 12 ga for everything.  Turned out working 12 ga wire is a PITA in switch boxes.  Eventually got all the wiring to work, except a 4-way lighting switch.  Dinked with it a couple days but couldn't figure it out.  Asked the controls manager at work to stop by the house.  Turned out I had two wires mis-wired.

Rant on!

Toilet started acting up after recently started using "flushable" booty wipes during a bout of the runs.  Been using 3 sheets of Charmin for the 1st wipe and 1 sheet of Cottonelle BW for cleanup, so neither a lot of solid stool or paper going down each flush. Flushes have been erratic...sometimes nearly fully (but not quite) and sometimes backing up to near rim of the bowl.  The back ups usually go down to below normal bowl level in 10-15 minutes.  It's weird because the 2 types of flushes seem to alternate every other flush.  Fortunately, the nearly full flushes take all debris out of the bowl.
Stopped using the flushables after the 1st occurrence and tried a standard plunger many times, but the issue remains.

Went shopping on Amazon for a toilet auger.  There are many types, most looking either PITA to use and/or having bad quality reviews.  Decided to try a no-hassle, high viscosity, "safe", liquid toilet clog remover (Green Gobbler) supposedly capable of liquifying paper and all organic matter.  Mostly good reviews on Amazon.  Followed directions and let it do its work for 8 hours.  First flush, water backed up to the rim again.  

Went back to Amazon to look at product instructions.  Saw conflicting information on how much of GG to use.  Directions on the 64 oz bottle I bought said use the whole bottle.  Saw they offered a 1 gallon jug and it said use the whole bottle.  Perhaps I didn't use enough?  Further research showed Home Depot sells the same product for half the price of Amazon.

Cottonelle flushables.  Saw videos and they appear to breakdown like normal TP.  After trying booty wipes, I'm not convinced.  They're thicker and more dense.  I blame them for my toilet issue.  Talked with my sis and she uses Cottonelle flushables, but doesn't flush them and throws them in a waste basket bag in the bathroom which I find more disgusting than a diaper bin or having a cat litter box on a main floor of your home.  This ain't fucking Mexico. I'm going back to straight TP...at least it flushes without plumbing issues.  Will use the booty wipes for sensitive times (rhoids & such), put them in doggy bag and carry them straight to the garbage can outside.

Rant off!  

The toilet issue goes on for now.  Think I may have found a product that might solve the problem.  The typical plunger usual works but not for this paper backup.  Need something with a little more kick to bust it up. The engineering makes sense.  Pneumatic like a bicycle tire pump but stores the pressure until pulling the trigger. Can build more than normal city water pressure vs a regular plunger and gravity.  Has a pressure gauge and includes attachments for floor and sink drains.  If this works on the toilet will throw out my plungers.

Toilet Plunger Blaster, High Pressure Toilet Plunger, Plungers for Bathroom Heavy Duty Drain Snake for Toilets, Bathroom Floor, Drain Sinks and Plumbing Clogs

Some thoughts:

Based on my experience, those erratic flushes often mean that the clog is well down the line.

You can plunge a toilet too hard and rip out the wax ring. Been there - if you have a finished ceiling above it you get to replace that. See Bob for drywall tips. FWIW - Don't use any type of strong acid for the same reason.

If a toilet auger and plunging won't easily fix the issue, the best way is to pull the toilet and snake the line. It is hard to snake a line with the trap on a toilet and you can mess up the bowl pretty good. I have seen toilet clogs more than 40 feet from the toilet - no amount of plunging is ever going to clear that.

I know you do a lot of home repairs so I assume you have set a toilet before. Not that difficult but not much fun either. If you don't want to do it, call around for pricing, usually you can find someone cheap.

High pressure "plungers" have been around quite awhile. The results are often mixed and they can cause a real mess if you don't cover the overflow hole (not applicable to a toilet).

As WBH is no longer around - I will add that you wouldn't have this problem if you had a bidet.

Flushable wipes are never flushable.

MSU addict wrote:Some thoughts:

Based on my experience, those erratic flushes often mean that the clog is well down the line.

If a toilet auger and plunging won't easily fix the issue, the best way is to pull the toilet and snake the line.

You might be able to find a clean-out fitting in the basement or garage below the toilet







If you are past open drains, this is a great tool to clear clogs in the line downstream from a toilet or sink:

shouldn't be a big deal, but once the rain/snow moves out this week (probably should've already taken care of it), I plan on sealing some small cracks in our asphalt driveway.

never done it before, it seems pretty straightforward.. but if y'all have tips, I'm open.